Jaunt in Jerash

Ever heard of Jerash, Jordon? No? Good, that makes two of us, at least until July 2017 when I quite accidentally ventured upon one of the most underrated historical and archaeological sites in the world (at least in my opinion). Located to the north of Amman, the visit to Jerash was among the most memorable experiences from my six weeks in the Middle East, which is astounding considering it almost didn't happen.

My impromptu trip to Jordan was born one night, attempting to escape the heat on a rooftop in northern Israel. As we lay on our backs, gazing at the stars, the conversation turned towards weekend travel, specifically a weekend trip to Jordan to see the ancient city of Petra. A couple of girls had gone a week before and could scarcely contain their enthusiasm for the sights they had seen, the people they had encountered, and the tastes they had savored. Their words wove an enticing tapestry in the night air, calling me to find a way, some way to also experience the wonder and majesty of those ancient places. I turned to my friend Priscila and asked her, or rather dared her, to go.
Within two weeks, we found a group of Spanish priests and theology students, paid an $100 deposit, and set out for the Jordan River boarder crossing.

I knew little before arriving at our first stop. Jerash, or Gerasa as it was called in antiquity (and is still called in Spanish), was one of the 10 cities of the Decapolis, established by the Greeks. However, it was taken over by the Romans, who lost no time in constructing a race track, stunning amphitheater, and numerous arches and gates. In fact, Jerash is known for containing the most preserved collection of Roman ruins outside of Italy.

The place was awesome. No, not awesome like when you find a granola bar in your backpack or when you remembered to bring an umbrella on a rainy day--truly awesome, as in awe-inspiring.

The ancient city was of enormous proportions. We spent almost half the day simply walking around, and were still unable to see everything.  Perhaps my favorite space, pictured below, was the Roman theatre. Yes, it was large and stately, however these more obvious attributes are not the reason the theatre captured my imagination.
As our tour guide explained, the theatre was engineered in such a way that the voices of the actors were perfectly amplified, reaching all the way up the last row of the theatre. Engineers are still not exactly sure how this technique was achieved, but I can attest to its validity. In the picture above, I stood at the center of the stage and spoke in a normal tone, while my friend Priscila climbed up to the top rows. She was able to hear exactly what I said, despite the distance.

For me, it is marvels such as the ability to amplify sound using design that fills me with wonder. The ingenuity of the ancient world is such that it continues to inspire, even in the hustle and bustle of modernity.

As we walked back across the dusty ruins, my mind wandered to the past, thinking about the people who thousands of years ago devised a way to allow even the lowliest spectator to enjoy the music of the theatre.


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